June 2009

“What do you want to eat,” the old woman asked gruffly, showing us some of her recent catches in plastic bowls on a small table – raw oysters, sea squirt and small octopi. Her face was leathery and weather-beaten from years of sand and salt, but her body looked as taut as an Olympic athlete under her wetsuit. My husband asked her to get us some abalone and she nodded, turned and disappeared into the surf.

Jeju has a frontier feel about it – from the matriarchic sea women (hae-nyo) who support their families by diving without gear for seafood to the island’s volcanic landscape. All over the island, dol harubang (“Stone Grandfather”) statues, carved from lava and featuring oddly large eyes and noses, provide protection and fertility for Jeju’s residents – another reminder that although this is Korea, Jeju has a culture and aesthetic all its own.

Jeju (sometimes Jeju-do or Cheju-do, “do” being the Korean word for “island”) lies at the southern end of the Korean peninsula and is a popular setting for Korean honeymooners. Like Hawaii, the island is known for its extinct volcano, Halla-san, its beaches and its temperate climate. Beach season runs from May to October but tourists come all year round for the food, hiking, golf and the island’s natural beauty.

The most popular part of the island for tourists is Jungmun resort area where the prestigious Shilla, Lotte and Hyatt hotels sit in a wooded area above Jungmun beach. Whether you stay in one of these hotels or not, take in the ocean views from the paths running behind the hotels or walk down the cliffs to enjoy the beach which is famous for its fine, white sand. Yeomiji Arboretum, Cheonjeyeon waterfall, and Haesikgul Cave are close by, so Jungmun offers both luxury and convenience.

Recreation
Horseback riding, hunting, and fishing are all popular recreational activities on Jeju, but don’t miss the hike up Halla Mountain (1950 meters). Trails range in distance from 6.5 kilometers to 8.3 kilometers and from easy to more challenging. Hiking is a national pastime, so expect to encounter other climbers, often travelling in groups, and at peak season the trails may be crowded.

Yeongshil Trail is particularly crowded, so consider taking the Gwaneumsa or Seongakpan trails. Night hiking is not permitted, so make sure you start off early. The Jeju Tourist Organization recommends beginning Halla hikes by 9am. Each season Halla has a different, but equally breathtaking face: pink azaleas in spring, a rolling, lush green view in summer, brilliant reds and oranges in the fall and a breathtaking snow cap in the winter.
Jeju has a number of world class golf courses. Many courses are private, but available to play through golf tour packages.

Food
Other than tourism, Jeju’s main industries are fishing and agriculture. And accordingly, you’ll have your pick of fresh fish, oysters, squid, sea cucumber and other seafood at Jeju’s restaurants or for purchase right on the beach. Mandarin oranges (gyul), hallabong (a citrus fruit that looks similar to an orange), mangos, pineapples and other fruits grow abundantly here. Stop along the side of the road and buy your favorites by the box. Pork from Jeju-raised black pigs is also popular – the meat is chewy and nutritious and locals say it tastes better than other types of pork.
 
Restaurants often specialize in a type of food, such as seafood or pork. Food will be served with complementary side dishes, including kimchi. Side dishes vary from restaurant to restaurant and season to season, and usually include both spicy and non-spicy dishes. Some typical side dishes include stir-friend dried anchovies (myulchi bokkeum), pan-friend tofu with a mildly spicy sauce, pickled garlic, pancake-like jeon with green onions and other vegetables and gyeran jjim, a kind of steamed egg dish. You can check if something is spicy by asking, “Mae woh yo?”

Nature
Naturalists will find much to see in Jeju. Yeomiji Botanical Garden is an indoor garden home to 2000 species of rare plants and 1700 species of flowers and trees. Hallim Park also includes 16 gardens and two caves – Hyopje Cave and Ssangyong Cave (Double Dragon Cave), the latter named after twin tunnels that are said to be dug by dragons. And at Manjang Cave wander a one-kilometer section of one of the longest lava tubes in the world.
Jeju is also home to Cheonjeyeon and Cheonjiyeon Waterfalls, both approximately 22 meters high. Cheonjeyeon is a three-tiered waterfall and tourists enjoy the photo opportunities from the volcanic land bridges.

The Bonsai Trees Garden contains 2000 bonsai trees as well as 100 rare tree species. And Jeju also hosts orchards growing in the lava stones around Halla Mountain.

Parks and Museums
For a small island, Jeju has quite a few parks. Kids may be interested in going to Mini World or the Miniature Theme Park, both of which contain small replicas of famous buildings such as the Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Taj Mahal. The Teddy Bear Museum has a large collection of teddy bears of all different types.

The Green Tea Museum is built in the shape of a tea cup amidst green tea plantations and allows guests to learn about tea production. There is, of course, an adjoining tea house serving green tea and green tea ice cream.

The Sculpture Park near Mt. Sanbang is home to over 160 different sculptures and an observation tower. The Wood and Stone Park “Mokseokwon” contains figures made of stones, roots and tree trunks.

For stories to take to your friends back home, Loveland is a quirky outdoor sculpture park with a sex education theme for the 18 and over set.

Seongeub Folk Village gives visitors a chance to explore traditional houses and village life, as well as purchase local specialties such as honey and traditional medicine. Jeju is also home to two Buddhist temples: Cheonwhang-sa and Yakcheon-sa. A water park is open during the summertime. Take a submarine tour for a view of the underwater landscape and perhaps a glimpse of the hae-nyo.

PACK YOUR BAGS

When to Go:
Tourists come to Jeju all year round, but beach season is from May to October. The average temperature in the southern part of the island is 16.8°C. Summers can be hot, with temperatures reaching a high of around 33°C and winters are mild with lows around 5°C.

Where to Stay
The two most popular resort areas are the Jungmun and Seogwip’o resort areas. For a luxurious experience try the Shilla or Lotte hotel, both in Jungmun.

Getting there
Flights run to Jeju International Airport from Seoul (approximately one hour), Shanghai, Beijing, Osaka and Tokyo. Once in Jeju, car rentals are available.