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Summer Heaven: Hokkaido

June 2010

Escape from the sweltering heat doesn’t require a long haul flight to far flung hemispheres. A hop, skip and a jump away is Niseko, a charming skiing hamlet by winter and magical getaway by summer.

FOR MOST OF US, Hokkaido means powder snow, warm sake and cozy winter nights. But there is another less well known version. The green brilliance of Hokkaido in summer is like a vast, cool oxygen tent. The abundance of foliage instantly strikes and almost overwhelms you – in a good way – as you leave the airport and head for the hills. One reason for the uncrowded greenery of Hokkaido is that the island represents 22 percent of Japan’s land mass but is home to less than 5 percent of the population.

Our family population of two adults and two children took advantage of an “escape the city” accommodation package offered last year by Hokkaido Tracks for first-time visitors to the mountain resort of Niseko. Simply get yourself to Sapporo and they will arrange a pick up or car rental with discounted rates for the summer use of ski lodges, subject to availability.

Niseko is less than 100 km from Sapporo, a two-hour leisurely drive through a national park. The pleasant summer temperatures rarely reach over 28 degrees Celsius during the day and drop somewhat at night. The cool evenings are an ideal time to visit the onsen (hot springs) for a post-dinner soak, and puts you in the right frame of mind and relaxation level for a wonderful quality of sleep. Leave a window open as you drift away to sleep and “hear and feel” the night, an experience we were told was special to Niseko.

Family favorite activities included a trip to a nearby ice cream factory and a tofu factory ten minutes from Niseko at the base of Mount Youtei. Here, you can taste and buy any number of different tofu types, textures and flavours (chocolate tofu donuts, anyone?). There was also a fresh mountain spring where locals filled up drums of water to take home in their pick up trucks.

If you time your trip just right - in the middle of July - you can go cherry picking in Nikki Cho, the soft fruit farming area between Niseko and Otaru, a nearby coastal town. The cherries I had here were without doubt some of the best I’ve ever tasted. Drive further to Furano for the lavender and flower fields and views of a steaming volcano.

Older children and their young-at-heart parents will enjoy the white water rafting, mountain biking, canyon hiking, fishing, golfing, hot-air ballooning, horseback riding, rope walks and many other outdoor activities that are sure to get the heart pumping and the lungs filled with fresh air. Rafting on the beautiful Shiribetsu river is best during spring or early summer. Take in the brand new mountain bike park at Hanazono or go in September and rent a bike to join the races, family rides and fun during Niseko Bike Week. Groove Cycles will sort out a bike for you.

Heading to Otaru is a treat in the summer as a historic steam train runs from Niseko to this port city developed by “western imperialists.” It goes without saying that the sushi here is fresh, fresh, fresh. And if you find Shanghai’s hairy crabs a bit of a fuss, wait until you see the size of the crabs found in these waters! After gorging yourself on seafood, stroll along one of Otaru’s historic canals to work off the calories, but beware of the chocolate shops that beckon.

All in all, our vacation was great. The weather was ideal, nature abundant, activities fun-filled, and food fabulous. It was the kind of holiday that you’d expect to have only after a 10-hour jet ride east, west or south. In fact, Niseko in summer was so much fun, we returned in October and eventually bought an apartment there (you should see what 3 million Rmb will buy in Shanghai these days!). And we plan to sample every season at our new mountain retreat.

Travel Tips:

VISAS: Those from many western and Asian countries don’t require visas for travel in Japan. Chinese nationals should apply for visas at the Japanese Consulate.
GETTING THERE: China Eastern flies direct to Sapporo three times a week. Chinese New Year is a peak travel period, and some skiers have been known to fly via Hong Kong.
ACCOMMODATION: Hokkaido Tracks offer houses and apartments at discounted summer rates.
GETTING AROUND: Driving on Hokkaido’s open roads is a pleasure, but you will need an international driving licence. Highways are mostly toll free, just remember to drive on the left side.
PARTING TIP: Bring cash. This is a very rural part of Japan and credit cards are not always accepted.