by Randi Ponek
April 2011
As with most expat families, we’ve escorted many guests to Badaling and Mutianyu to visit the Great Wall over our last eight years in China. Together, we’ve dodged the crowds and vendors, which seemed to increase with each visit. Then, when our close friends from Seattle visited with their two daughters last spring, they suggested that our families stay overnight at the Great Wall.

I remembered that our former Shanghai neighbors, Jenifer and John Sullivan, had renovated a village country home in Mutianyu in August 2007. Once I found out their home, Persimmon Court, was available to rent through The Schoolhouse Homes, I booked the home for our two families.

The Schoolhouse is an award-winning eco retreat created and operated by The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu Great Wall. In the renovation process, salvaged building materials were used, natural light has been maximized, and thermal-paned windows and doors have been installed. Additional features include passive solar, radiant heating, insulated floors and roofs and the use of natural ventilation. To reduce the use of bottled water, each home features water filters, and amenities such as soaps and shampoos are dispensed by bulk instead of disposable packages. They avoid chemical cleansers, control energy use, and recycle and compost waste.

Beijing Bound
After arriving at Beijing International Airport at around 1 pm, our families piled into our reserved van and rode about an hour to the rustic communal village of Mutianyu. We first stopped at The Schoolhouse, the renovated village school that is the base for all of The Schoolhouse’s rental units and hotels, and also includes a restaurant, an art gallery, and a glass blowing studio. The Schoolhouse is well worth a stop even if you are only visiting Mutianyu for a day. Definitely stop for lunch.

Eager to get up to the Great Wall, we dropped off our bags at Persimmon Court and hiked a short distance from the village to the entrance gate to the Great Wall. As it was approaching the 5:30 closing time, we moved against a current of tourists and souvenir vendors all headed home for the day. After purchasing a ticket, we hopped on the last chairlift to carry us up to the Wall.

Stepping onto the Wall, we realized we were all alone. The crowds, trinket and t-shirt hawkers and guards were all gone. Unbelievably, over a billion people in China and we were standing alone as the sun started casting long shadows against the Wall.

From the chairlift we turned right and strolled in the direction of Mutianyu. The kids had a blast running freely and pretending to guard against the invading Mongols. After an hour or so of taking in this majestic sight, with the sun quickly setting, we found a path off the wall that looked as if it would lead us back down the valley to the village. After passing a sign, which told us not to proceed in about 10 languages, we discovered a bucolic stone path meandering through a simple terraced orchard which led us down into the heart of Mutianyu village.

As we wandered through the village, we found the community of elderly locals welcoming and friendly as they invited us to join in on their evening activities. It was a highlight to join in on the rhythm of the village as they chatted and set about their evening rituals.

Thankfully we had pre-ordered dinner from The Schoolhouse restaurant and arranged to have it left in our rental house. We started a fire in the fireplace and settled in to enjoy dinner with a clear view of the stars, which we rarely see in light bathed skies of Shanghai. If ordering in is not your thing, all of the houses have fully equipped kitchens, so it’s also possible to bring food to prepare.

The next morning after a relaxing breakfast at The Schoolhouse, we met Jenifer and drove over to the village of Beigou, approximately 5 km by road or 1 km as the crow flies to the west of Mutianyu. The Schoolhouse can provide the transportation and local hiking map with trails for both experienced and novice hikers. From Beigou, we hiked up the side of the mountain and climbed onto the Wall at an area without any gates or guards and then hiked back to the famous Mutianyu bobsleds and slid back down to the village!

Travel Tips
Places to Stay: With all the amenities of a five-star hotel, Persimmon Court can accommodate two families with two master suites and a bunk bed room for kids. The Schoolhouse manages ten other custom homes that all have views of the Great Wall and private gardens. They also operate the Brickyard Inn for guests who prefer individual rooms. All the rooms have huge window walls and private terraces facing the Great Wall. For more information on the rental homes see www.schoolhousehotels.com

Good to Know: Those interested in Mutianyu Great Wall should check out www.mutianyugreatwall.net, a public service website with park and attraction hours and pricing as well as information on many local restaurants and lodgings. In addition, the site offers “getting there” directions, including the driving directions, public bus information, and the School Bus service operated by The Schoolhouse.

General Information: Mutianyu Great Wall is open 365 days a year but The Schoolhouse properties close in mid-winter around Spring Festival time; check www.theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com or call +86-10-6162-6506 for dates and hours of operation and to learn about their lodgings. The Schoolhouse can arrange transfers from/to Beijing Airport or downtown for guests who prefer seamless planning.